What is the best infill for 3D printing

This article is brought to you by Lizzsews.

Infill -> what keeps the print stable internally. It helps with crush resistance although cannot help with snapping. It is the inside of a 3D print.

But what is the best infill for 3D printing?

Recommended read: About my 3D printer

You can choose how much infill density you want for a design when you are slicing it. 10%-20% is often a good baseline unless you need a stronger print. 0% being hollow with 100% being solid.

There are different infill pattern types, each infill pattern affects the versatility, strength, weight and print time. It's important to know when to use each different infill pattern to give you the best results on your print.

-Lines -> multiple lines per layer, 2D pattern

-Zig Zag -> typically one constant line, 2D pattern

---> For models or figurines. These infills don’t have a whole bunch of strength but typically give the fastest prints. ~0%-15% infill

-Grid -> a grid, quicker print speed, 2D pattern

-Triangles -> mesh of triangles, stronger, 2D pattern

-Tri-hexagon -> hexagons distributed with triangles, shorter lines to connect each side, 2D pattern

---> For standard 3D prints, subject to low/medium stress.

~15%-50% infill

-Cubic/honeycomb-> stacked and tilted cubes, 3D pattern

-Cubic subdivision -> a variation of cubic, uses less material

-Octet/tetrahedral -> stack of pyramids, 3d pattern

-Quarter cubic -> a variation of octet, half of the pyramids are shifted, 3D pattern

-Gyroid -> a wave effect, equally strong in multiple directions, 3D pattern

---> For functional 3D prints, where good strength is required in multiple directions.

~50%-100% infill

-Concentric -> waves to mimic the outer walls, 2D pattern

-Cross -> grids of fancy crosses, 2D pattern

-Cross 3D -> a variation of cross, the lines move as inclines as it's built, more rigid, 3D pattern

---> For flexible prints, to preserve the flexibility of the filament.

~0%-95% infill

Recommended read: What is slicing in the 3D printing world
Recommended read: What I use to slice my 3D print files

Leave a comment below and let me know what your next print will be! And don't forget to subscribe to stay up to date with all of Lizzsews new articles. See you next time!

Comments

10 Things You Need To Start Machine Embroidery Today

This article is brought to you by Lizzsews . How to start machine embroidery! Here’s everything that you need to get started with machine embroidery! Without spending too much! Are you interested in sewing? Recommended read: 10 things you'll need to start sewing! 1. You are going to need an embroidery machine . You can use any embroidery machine you want. Here are a couple of examples: The Brother se600. This machine can do both sewing and embroidery, and is the best budget embroidery machine! I highly suggest this machine. The brother pe550D! This is an embroidery-only machine, with awesome Disney embroidery designs! The brother se1900. I recommend the Brother brand for sewing and embroidery machines. To note here: determine your budget, determine how much you have to spend on embroidery supplies (and blanks ) and how much you have to spend on your machine. Purchase the largest embroidery hoop that you can afford! The se600 is an amazing machine and I highly recomm

8 Reasons Why Your Upper Thread Is Shredding On Your Embroidery Machine

This article is brought to you by Lizzsews . Here are some reasons why your top thread might be shredding while you’re embroidering! Starting machine embroidery is definitely a challenge, and troubleshooting is hard. Recommended read: 10 Things you need to start machine embroidery today Often when your top thread is shredding, it’s caused by when the thread goes through the eye of the needle or while it’s going through the thread guides. 1. A dull or bent needle How long has it been since you’ve changed that needle? It might be time to swap it out! A needle only lasts about 8-10 hours of stitching, this amount of time may vary depending on what you are making. It’s good to have lots of needles on hand. Recommended read: When should I change the needle for machine embroidery 2. Are you using the right needle for the project? Are you embroidering heavier fabrics? Like denim or leather? If so, you’ll want to use a heavier needle size like 90/14. If you’re just embroidering mid-weight

Guide To The Three Main Machine Embroidery Stabilizers

This article is brought to you by Lizzsews . Here is everything that you need to know about the three main machine embroidery stabilizers. Stabilizers are important in machine embroidery; they prevent puckering and support the fabric. The stabilizer goes underneath the fabric you are embroidering. Although there are some stabilizers that will go on top of certain types of fabric, this is called a topper. A bottom stabilizer is always needed, you can never embroider without stabilizer, but a stabilizer topper is only needed for certain blanks. The three main types of stabilizers are cutaway, tearaway, and wash away. The first is a cutaway stabilizer. A cutaway stabilizer can be used on clothes and many different types of fabric. The cutaway stabilizer is permanent and is mainly designed for knit fabric. It is non-woven and helps get rid of pulled or sagging stitches. The cutaway stabilizer has a lot of stretch resistance and stays intact after wearing, using, and launderin

Lizzsews

Search This Blog