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Showing posts with the label 3D printing

My standard Cura slice settings

  This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews . Every 3D printer has their own slicing settings that they have tested with their machine and works best for them. Each different material- and brand, requires different settings too. Recommended read: What is slicing in the 3D printing world These are my settings for my 3D printer, Anycubic Mega Zero 2.0: Recommended read: About my 3D printer PLA (Mech Solutions): Layer height (resolution): 2 Infill (density): 15% Infill pattern: Zigzag Printing temperature (nozzle): 200 °C Build plate temperature: 60 °C Speed: 50mm/sec Build plate adhesion type: Skirt (for articulated prints I usually use a brim) Recommended read: What is PLA TPU (Eryone): Layer height (resolution): 2 Infill (density): 15% Infill pattern: grid, concentric, or cross Printing temperature (nozzle): 215°C Build plate temperature: 60°C Speed: 30mm/sec Build plate adhesion type: Skirt Recommended read: What is TPU Any settings that I didn't mention I usually u...

What is a GCODE file

  This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews . GCODE -> Geometric Code The language that tells a machine what and how to do something. The file tells the machine what path to follow, where to move, how fast to move, and more. This software programming language is used to control CNC machines- including 3D printers. When downloading or creating 3D models, you are often left with an STL or OBJ file. These files are not compatible with and cannot be read by your machine. It needs to be 'translated' for your printer to print it. Recommended read: What is an STL file \ Translating = slicing When you slice your STL or OBJ files, you receive a GCODE file. This file can now be read by your machine and contains commands for your machine. The file tells your 3D printer what parts to move within. Recommended read: What is slicing in the 3D printing world When slicing your 3D print model, you set your settings in slicing software. These settings determine what code will be writt...

What is an STL file

This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews . STL -> Stereolithography Stereolithography -> form of 3D printing CAD for creating models. Using photochemical processes -> light causes chemical monomers and oligomers which cross-link to form polymers. This is in a layer-by-layer fashion. Recommended: Rebels Star Wars Keychain 3D Print Model The object surface is composed of triangles- the more triangles, the more complex. To put it simply, STL files are files that have been (most of the time) designed for 3d printing. They are three-dimensional objects, without other common CAD attributes; only the geometry of the model is given. This STL file cannot be read by your 3d printer. It needs to be 'translated' for your printer to print it. Translating = slicing For your printer to be able to print your STL file, you need to slice it. Recommended read: What is slicing in the 3D printing world After slicing your print, you're left with a GCODE file. This file is comp...

What is TPU

This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews . TPU -> thermoplastic polyurethane which is made up of a blend of rubber and plastic. It's resistant to oil, grease and abrasion. Recommended read: What is PLA When 3D printing, TPU filament is used to create flexible prints. It is easier to extrude and use compared to that of other flexible filaments as it is more rigid. It's flexy and elastic like rubber- but durable like plastic. TPU is tricky to print with because of its unique characteristics. It should be printed at slower speeds and higher temperatures, compared to PLA. The TPU filament that I use from Eryone prints at a lower temperature than most TPU filaments, this is why you must see what the filament that you have states for its temperature and experiment with it! When using different filaments and making different prints that have different uses, you might need to adjust the infill too. When using PLA I often use the zig-zag infill, but when using TPU, I use fl...

The strongest 3D printing infill pattern

This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews . Infill -> what keeps the print stable internally. It helps with crush resistance although cannot help with snapping. It is the inside of a 3D print. But what is the strongest infill pattern? The strongest infill pattern for 3D printing is known as the cubic pattern, also known as the honeycomb pattern. It's a 3D pattern of stacked and tilted cubes that takes up a large amount of space within the model. It's supportive and has a higher density than most other infill patterns. As it is the strongest, that also means that it takes a longer time to print with and has a higher production cost. This infill pattern should be used for functional 3D prints, where good strength is required in multiple directions, or prints that will be under any pressure that need some strength. An infill density of 50%-100% should be used for best results. Recommended read: What is the best infill for 3D printing Recommended read: What I use to slice...

What is the best infill for 3D printing

This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews . Infill -> what keeps the print stable internally. It helps with crush resistance although cannot help with snapping. It is the inside of a 3D print. But what is the best infill for 3D printing? Recommended read: About my 3D printer You can choose how much infill density you want for a design when you are slicing it. 10%-20% is often a good baseline unless you need a stronger print. 0% being hollow with 100% being solid. There are different infill pattern types, each infill pattern affects the versatility, strength, weight and print time. It's important to know when to use each different infill pattern to give you the best results on your print. 1. -Lines -> multiple lines per layer, 2D pattern -Zig Zag -> typically one constant line, 2D pattern ---> For models or figurines. These infills don’t have a whole bunch of strength but typically give the fastest prints. ~0%-15% infill 2. -Grid -> a grid, quicker print speed, 2...

How I made 3D print of robot holding a heart for valentine's day

This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews . I had to 3D print something for valentine's day, cue the adorable robot holding a heart. I was scrolling through Cults3d and found this 3d model by PLP . Recommended read: The famous 3D printing benchy Recommended read: How I made article series What I used: Purple PLA filament 3D printer Robot holding a heart by PLP STL Cura (slicing software) Recommended read: What is PLA Recommended read: What is slicing Recommended read: About my 3D printer How I made it: To create this 3D print, I started off by downloading the 3d print model by PLP on cults3d. I opened the robot file up in Cura and added the heart to the same board. I set my printing settings: 0.2mm resolution 10% infill -zig zag 200/60 temp for PLA 50mm/sec speed Supports at 60° overhang angle -triangles 15% density 5-line skirt Result: Under 20-minute print, under 1" tall. After that print, I sized the design up 300%, I used the same settings and had about a 3-hour ...

The famous 3D printing benchy

This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews . The benchy boat is a 3D print model that has been designed for testing and benchmarking your 3D printer. Use this print to test how your printer is printing and try out different slicing software settings and filaments. Recommended read: What I use to slice my 3d print files Recommended read: What is PLA Benchy - short for benchmark! You can find the Benchy here The features of the benchy: 1. First layer details - On the bottom of the boat, there are shallow letters. These letters will reveal whether or not first-layer blobbing is occurring. - If first layer blobbing is occurring, your nozzle is too close to the bed. If your print is not sticking to the bed, your nozzle might be too far from the bed. Relevel your printer bed. Recommended read: How to level the 3d printer bed 2. Small and large horizontal holes - Can see if the printer has ringing or ghosting, vibration. 3. Low slope surfaces - Show the layered structure...

Why is my 3D printer extruding instead of printing

This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews . Before I could actually 3D print my AirPods case, I had some printing troubles.  I would click to start the print, and rather than moving, heating up or anything, the printer would extrude!  Recommended read: Airpods case 3d print: How I made article 10 I had also just swapped from using PLA filament to TPU filament. I preheated my machine manually and the filament was slowly just coming out of the nozzle for no reason.  Recommended read: What is PLA I re-sliced the print file 3 times and retried, each time it had the same results.    Recommended read: What is slicing in the 3D printing world I shut off the printer, reset the slicing software and searched for a new file.  Recommended read: What I use to slice my 3D print files I sliced the new file, turned my 3D printer back on and preheated it manually. I started the print, and it didn’t start by extruding! The print ended up great and there were no more s...

ImpROCKster print: How I made article 14

  This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews . In today's article, I will guide you through how 3D printed Not just any 3D print… the impROCKster print.  The Rock x Among Us.  Follow along with this project and share your result in  Lizzsews Facebook group . Recommended read: The famous 3D printing benchy Recommended read: How I made article series What I used: PLA filament ImpROCKster print file 3D printer  Cura (slicing software) Recommended read:  What is PLA Recommended read:  About my 3D printer Recommended read: What is slicing in the 3D printing world The steps I took: I started by just exploring some 3D print files. I found this awesome print from Thingiverse, created by TheRealRussell . I sliced the file in Cura and adjusted the settings. I used MECH solutions PLA filament and these were the settings that I used: 200 nozzle temp 60 bed temp 0.2mm height 50mm/sec speed 15% infill - zig zag fill Supports yes Retrac...

Mythosaurs (3D print)

 This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews .   In honour of The Book of Boba Fett episode one airing today. In today's article, I will guide you through how 3D printed a mythosaur.  Follow along with this project and share your result in  Lizzsews Facebook group . Recommended read: The famous 3D printing benchy Recommended read: How I made article series Mythosaurs -> Creatures tamed and  ridden by ancient Mandalorian. Its skull being the iconic symbol of the Mandalorian.  "You are a Mandalorian! Your ancestors rode the great Mythosaur” - Kuiil What I used: PLA white filament 3D printer Mythosaur 3D print file Cura (slicing software) Recommended read: What is PLA Recommended read: About my 3D printer Recommended read: What is slicing in the 3D printing world The steps I took: I found this amazingly designed Mythosaur print on Thingiverse by funerall. I sliced the print in Cura and used Eryone PLA filament and these were the settings that I used: ...