Skip to main content

Ski Coaster: How I made article 18

 This article is brought to you by Lizzsews.

In today's article, I will guide you through how I made a ski coaster. Follow along with this project and share your result in Lizzsews Facebook group.

Recommended read: How I made article series

What I used:

Ceramic coaster

Infusible ink rainbow transfer sheets

butcher paper/parchment paper


EasyPress 2 + mat


Standardgrip mat

The steps I took:

I started out by looking for the design that I wanted, I was looking for a wintery ski design that would fit nicely on the coaster. I ended up finding the perfect skiing design in Cricut design space that was exactly what I was looking for. Although I didn't quite like the look of the snowflake on the bottom, I liked that there was a snowflake... just not that snowflake. I searched for other snowflakes on Cricut design space and found one I liked.

Cricut image ID: #M21B5B156 - Ski letters with poles like a compass
Cricut image ID: #M8DB1F43 - Snowflake

To replace the other snowflake with this snowflake, I used the contour. Let me guide you through how I did it. First, I detached and ungrouped everything, but the S-K-I was connected to the snowflake still. So, I selected the layer, went to actions and clicked contour. Once in contour, I selected each contour of the snowflake and it was now gone.

I added the new snowflake to the design by sizing it and placing it where the other snowflake used to be. I selected everything, went into the actions and selected attach. 

I clicked 'make it', and mirrored the design.

Recommended read: Cricut when to mirror (and how)

Using the blue section of the rainbow transfer sheets, I placed it on the mat inked side up and cut it out. Once cut, I weeded the design by peeling off the unnecessary pieces. Before placing the design onto the ceramic coaster, I wiped down the coaster with a lint-free cloth.

I preheated my EasyPress 2 to 400°F. I used the Cricut heat guide to determine the temperature, the amount of time to press for and the pressure to press with. I placed a piece of cardstock on top of the EasyPress mat, placed the ceramic coaster design faced down/on the cardstock and a piece of butcher paper on top of everything. Inside of the infusible ink transfer sheets roll is a piece of butcher paper!

Next, I placed the EasyPress 2 onto everything and left it with no pressure for 240 seconds. Once the timer was up, I slowly lifted up the EasyPress 2. I waited until the liner was cool to the touch to peel as it was very hot.

I peeled up the liner and the transfer sheet pieces that no longer had their ink on them and the coaster looked great! I was very happy with the result and can't wait to gift it for my friend's birthday!

Leave a comment below and let me know if you made this coaster! And don't forget to subscribe to stay up to date with all of Lizzsews new articles. See you next time!


Popular posts from this blog

10 Things You Need To Start Machine Embroidery Today

 This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews . How to start machine embroidery! Here’s everything that you need to get started with machine embroidery! Without spending too much! Are you interested in sewing? Recommended read:  10 things you'll need to start sewing! 1. You are going to need an embroidery machine . You can use any embroidery machine you want. Here are a couple of examples: The Brother se600. This machine can do both sewing and embroidery, and is the best budget embroidery machine! I highly suggest this machine. The brother pe550D! This is an embroidery-only machine, with awesome Disney embroidery designs! The brother se1900. I recommend the Brother brand for sewing and embroidery machines. To note here: determine your budget, determine how much you have to spend on embroidery supplies (and blanks ) and how much you have to spend on your machine. Purchase the largest embroidery hoop that you can afford! The se600 is an amazing machine and I highly recomm

8 Reasons Why Your Upper Thread Is Shredding On Your Embroidery Machine

 This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews . Here are some reasons why your top thread might be shredding while you’re embroidering! Starting machine embroidery is definitely a challenge, and troubleshooting is hard.  Recommended read: 10 Things you need to start machine embroidery today Often when your top thread is shredding, it’s caused by when the thread goes through the eye of the needle or while it’s going through the thread guides.  1. A dull or bent needle How long has it been since you’ve changed that needle? It might be time to swap it out! A needle only lasts about 8-10 hours of stitching, this amount of time may vary depending on what you are making. It’s good to have lots of needles on hand. Recommended read: When should I change the needle for machine embroidery 2. Are you using the right needle for the project? Are you embroidering heavier fabrics? Like denim or leather? If so, you’ll want to use a heavier needle size like 90/14. If you’re just embroidering mid-weight

Guide To The Three Main Machine Embroidery Stabilizers

 This article is brought to you by  Lizzsews . Here is everything that you need to know about the three main machine embroidery stabilizers. Stabilizers are important in machine embroidery; they prevent puckering and support the fabric.  The stabilizer goes underneath the fabric you are embroidering. Although there are some stabilizers that will go on top of certain types of fabric, this is called a topper.  A bottom stabilizer is always needed, you can never embroider without stabilizer, but a stabilizer topper is only needed for certain blanks. The three main types of stabilizers are cutaway, tearaway, and wash away.  The first is a cutaway stabilizer. A cutaway stabilizer can be used on clothes and many different types of fabric. The cutaway stabilizer is permanent and is mainly designed for knit fabric. It is non-woven and helps get rid of pulled or sagging stitches.  The cutaway stabilizer has a lot of stretch resistance and stays intact after wearing, using, and launderin